The historic cafés of Buenos Aires, a protected heritage

It’s eleven o’clock in the morning on Sunday 18 December 2022. There is still an hour to go before the end of the World Cup final between Argentina and France. The El Banderín bar is buzzing. Customers sporting sunhats and jerseys in the colours of the national team continue to flock in to watch the match – regulars and outsiders alike. Waiters of both sexes make their way between the tables, juggling their trays laden with beers, snacks... and siphons of sparkling seltzer water that no one has ordered. They’re on the house.